In 1904 Chicago-based city planner and architect Daniel Burnham[1] was commissioned to design and oversee the building of San Francisco’s Merchants Exchange Building. He assigned one of his apprentices, Willis Polk[2], to the project. Polk moved to San Francisco to oversee the completion of the Merchants Exchange Building and it would launch his career: Polk designed many of the office buildings located in the Financial District[3].
In 1851 the Merchants Exchange Club (in existence from 1851-1997) was founded to give traders and businessmen the latest shipping news. Their first building was located on Battery Street and was comprised of a library and a large meeting room where watchmen on the roof of the building would relay the arrival of ships to those in the room below. This original building was succeeded by a building on California Street and had, because it was more inland, a tower on the roof to observe ship traffic. In 1904 the Burnham-designed building was constructed at 465 California between Montgomery and Leidesdorff Alley. At 15 stories, it featured newly invented steel support beams with a façade of Tennessee granite and an observation tower on the roof that no longer exists. When completed, the Merchants Exchange Building was one of the tallest buildings in San Francisco. During the 1906 Earthquake and Fires[4] it was gutted by fire but did not burn down. Willis Polk and Julia Morgan[5] oversaw the building’s repair and remodel including a skylight and marble lobby. Maritime artist William Coulter was commissioned to paint five murals in the lobby, each depicting a sailing scene. The building provided water and electricity to its neighbors during the City’s reconstruction and became a symbol of hope for the rebirth of San Francisco.
The 15th floor housed The Commercial Club, an exclusive club for politicians and socialites. When the Club opened, then mayor James Rolph[5A] was elected president. In 1913 he held a black-tie fundraiser in the Club to propose that the City host a world fair (what would become the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition[6]), and more than enough funds were raised in less than two hours. My great grandfather, William CTS Filmer[7], a ship captain, was appointed San Francisco’s Port Captain by Rolph, and the two became drinking buddies when Filmer set up his office in the building.
In 1995 real estate developer Clint Reilly purchased the Merchants Exchange Club building and did extensive renovations. The space that once was the great room is now occupied by the California Bank of Trust. The 15th floor Commercial Club is now the Julia Morgan Ballroom[8] and rented out for events. Ironically, despite all the renovations that have taken place over the years, there are still only 25 bathrooms for all 15 floors.
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[1] Daniel Burnham: https://thesanfranciscophoenix.com/?p=3273 [2] Willis Polk: https://thesanfranciscophoenix.com/?p=5219 [3] Financial District: https://thesanfranciscophoenix.com/?p=4109 [4] 1906 Earthquake and Fires: https://thesanfranciscophoenix.com/?p=2849 [5] Julia Morgan: https://thesanfranciscophoenix.com/?p=4408 [5A] James “Sunny Jim” Rolph: https://thesanfranciscophoenix.com/?p=5365 [6] 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition: story coming February 20th [7] William CTS Filmer: https://thesanfranciscophoenix.com/?p=4643 [8] Visit them at www.juliamorganballroom.com
