The Ohlone Indian tribe were the first known people to call San Francisco their home: a shell mound found along today’s Presidio coastline dates back to 740AD. On September 17, 1776 the Presidio, located at the northwestern tip of the City, was established as Spain’s northernmost military outpost in North America, making it the oldest military installation in the American West. It was created to defend Spain’s claim to the San Francisco Bay and to support Mission Dolores[1]. When Mexico declared independence from Spain in 1821 the Presidio changed from Spanish to Mexican sovereignty. In 1835 Mexican forces were relocated to Sonoma and the Presidio was all but abandoned, leaving behind a handful of soldiers to guard the arsenal.
In 1846, after the Mexican/American War was triggered by a border dispute in Texas, US Army Lieutenant John Fremont, with a small detachment of soldiers, captured the Presidio. The US Army officially took command of the site in 1857. Fort Point[2], a mammoth brick and granite fortification located at the mouth of the San Francisco Bay, was built. The once grassy hills were forested. The Letterman Army Medical Hospital was built. The National Cemetery[2A], the oldest on the West Coast, was established. Seventeen concrete batteries housing cannons were installed along the western coastline and eleven were installed along the northern coastline. Manned from 1891-1946, none of these battlements were ever engaged.
From 1890-1914 Presidio soldiers became the nation’s first park rangers when they were deployed to patrol Yosemite and Sequoia National Parks. After the 1906 Earthquake and Fires[3], Presidio soldiers fought fires, protected businesses and provided aid, food and shelter to the displaced. During the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition[4], Presidio soldiers participated in parades, honor guards and artillery demonstrations.
In 1920 Crissy Field[5], the stretch of shoreline on the northeastern end of the Presidio, became the first military aviation field on the West Coast.
During World War II the Presidio became home to the Western Defense Command headquarters as well as a deployment center and training site. Civilian access was prohibited and all 28 battlements were put on high alert. After the war, the Presidio remained the headquarters for all Army forces in the Western United States until October 1, 1994 when Congress deactivated the military installation and transferred the land to the National Park Service. Many areas had to be decontaminated before being opened to the public.
Today the Presidio[6] is 14,800 acres of land consisting of 24 miles of trails with 8 scenic overlooks and four creeks. Rob Hill Campground is the only overnight campsite within City limits located at the highest point above Baker Beach. Mountain Lake, which is located near Lake and Veterans Blvd, is one of San Francisco’s three remaining natural lakes. The western battlements can be accessed via the Batteries to Bluffs Trail. In 2022 the northern battlements were opened as a park, as well as a swath of land that goes over tunnels connecting the Marina to the Golden Gate Bridge[6A].
There are also residential and commercial tenants including the Lodge at the Presidio, the Inn at the Presidio, the Bay School of San Francisco and the Presidio Theater. In 2001 the Letterman Medical Hospital was demolished and replaced with the Letterman Digital Arts Center housing the headquarters for Lucas Films and featuring the famous Yoda Fountain.
In October 2008 the Presidio Trust commissioned British artist Andy Goldsworthy to construct four pieces of art using wood found on the grounds. The first, Spire, is a 100 foot wood needle located near the Arguello Gate. It was damaged in 2020 by a suspected arson fire and is now protected by fencing. Goldsworthy would go on to create Wood Line in 2011, Tree Fall in 2013 and Earth Wall in 2014.
On October 1, 2009 Dianne Marie Disney-Miller, the only child of Walt Disney, co-founded the Walt Disney Family Museum[7], located in a brick building in the Presidio parade grounds. It is not associated with the Walt Disney Company but is rather a collection of Disney family artifacts including the 248 awards that Disney won during his career. It is open Thursday-Sunday, 10AM-5:30PM.
My favorite spot in the Presidio is the Pet Cemetery[8]. Animals owned by families stationed in the Presidio are buried here. Located just off the the western edge of Crissy Field, it is believed to have originated in the 1950s and includes 424 handmade headstones for dogs, cats, birds, rodents and reptiles.
The Gallery contains additional photos of Presidio features.
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[1] Mission Dolores: https://thesanfranciscophoenix.com/?p=4168 [2] Fort Point: https://thesanfranciscophoenix.com/?p=3968 [2A] Photo: https://thesanfranciscophoenix.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/8C1276F0-95B9-48E6-A26B-D9282757768D.jpeg [3] 1906 Earthquake and Fires: https://thesanfranciscophoenix.com/?p=2849 [4] 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition: story coming February 20th [5] Crissy Field: story coming October 8th [6] Visit them at www.presidio.gov [6A] Golden Gate Bridge: https://thesanfranciscophoenix.com/?p=4916 [7] Visit them at www.waltdisney.org [8] Photo: https://thesanfranciscophoenix.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/C3570AED-D073-49B2-9966-73172AE13DE3.jpeg
